Plumbing Fittings Interview Preparation Guide

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Put ice cubes in the disposal (about 1/2 way), run the disposal, flush out with cold water. Next put 1/2 a lemon and grind it up.

If you can see water in the trap , then the trap is holding water and you know it's working. Even if the trap is undersized (1 1/2"; instead of 2";) it would work. So the problem is probably a leaking drain pipe, the shower drain itself (the part that is connected to the shower stall) or it's leaking where the two connect. Can't fix the pipe or the drain itself without pulling the shower out. But, if you can see a rubber or lead ring around the pipe as it sticks up into the shower drain - that can be removed and a new one put in. This is a pretty common practice in concrete shower installs.

Up until 10/15 years ago we put in anti hammer tubes. The *powers that be* found that the tubes got water logged over time. So - it's no longer code. In commercial installs, spring loaded devices are used especially at the end of long runs or at the end of a series of fixtures like urinals. To replace the air in the anti hammers, drain down the water in the whole house with the faucets turned on. The idea is that when you turn the water back on it will compress the air at the highest point at the end of each pipe. That's what the *powers that be* realized that plumbers were not plumbing for - and home owners would not do.

There is no way to clean rust out of old galvanized pipes. Most DWM s have a screen where the water connects to the machine. You access it through the lower front panel. Another solution would be to put a filter on just the hot water pipe to the DWM. If you replace the pipe - use copper - and connect to the old galvanized with a dialectic union.

Find out what the freeze depth is in your area and bury the pipes below that level. Here (Seattle area) it is about 2 feet. Use schedule 40 PVC for cold water and CVPC for hot (if you are running that out also).

If the run from the house to the street is short (under 60 feet) I'd use *Type L * soft copper. It is less likely to break and it has no fittings in the ground except at each end of the pipe. I'd also put pipe (foam) insulation) around the copper run. For longer runs my next choice would be schedule 40 PVC pipe. Not a bad choice at all. I would not use flexible plastic - that is black *poly* pipe. It comes in a roll. Way to soft and the metal clamps and hard plastic (or metal) connectors will break over time. I repair them weekly.
My Black Poly Pipe Pet Peeve My experience with black poly pipe (comes in a roll) is that it leaks. It is too soft. Hard surfaces (rocks) rub holes in it and where ever there is a transition to another type of pipe or an elbow it will leak there - because of the hard adapter, radiator clamps and the soft pipe. Schedule 40 PVC or copper is the best way to go with water mains.

If you lived alone, only using one plumbing fixture at a time - correct pipe size wouldn't be a big issue. However when you are in the shower and someone flushes the toilet - it is a big deal. The basic rule is *two fixtures on a 1/2"; pipe*. You need min. 3/4"; incoming cold pipe for a one bath house. Just running 3/4"; to each fixture in the house won't hurt, but there will be no real gain. To size a water distribution system, get a copy of your state code book. It will spell it out in terms of beginning pressure, the furthest fixture from the meter and the number of fixtures in the house. Each fixture is worth *so many units* and you are allowed *so many units* for each size pipe as you get further from the meter.

IMHO copper rules in most situations (unless you have low pH or aggressive water) ! Over time, the plastic can sometimes *sag* and possibly get brittle. If it needs to be repaired or altered in any way, the pipe will have to be glued and you will have no water 'til it dries. Copper-you can solder, turn it on, test it and know that all is well. Any plastic to metal connection is weak, such as where the HWT connection is made. Mice and rats love many plastics. They chew on it to keep their teeth from growing through their lower jaw.

It's my understanding that having a disposal is like having another person adding to the load on the septic system. So... are you currently under utilizing your system, over using or about right? Dishwasher on a septic system? I don't think really matters. If I had a dishwasher - I'd run it into a disposal even if I did not use the disposal for anything else.

Garbage Disposal problems can be plumbing, electrical or appliance. If the disposal doesn't work at all - no *hum* or any sound, then push the red (reset) button on the bottom of the disposal. If that doesn't work, check the breaker in the electrical panel. If the unit *hums* but doesn't turn then you can try unsticking it.. Some units come with a wrench that you can use to turn the cutter flywheel from the bottom. ( An allen wrench will work). Or, use a *plumber's friend* , broom handle- something with a handle, and stick it in the disposal and try to turn the cutting wheel around. In effect - unstick it. If the unit doesn't respond to the above, it's time for an appliance repair man or replace the unit.

In WA State gas unions are not allowed inside buildings. There are left and right hand couplings and nipples that take the place of unions. No sealant is required on unions faces - the seal is made by the beveled male/female surfaces. Also do not use regular teflon tape. There is a separate type of tape for gas. Really, I think TU555 is the best sealant.

In the old days, sometimes after a long time. This was generally due to the poor quality of galvanizing. Today using galvanized pipe generally presents no threat. Plumbers tend to use black pipe with gas for two main reasons. One is that it costs less than galvanized (except I've seen some home centers charging more for black which must be because of consumers lack of knowledge of "cost"). The other is that if galvanized pipes are used for water then using black for gas distinguishes the two uses. Imagine using galvanized for both gas and water in the same house? That could present a problem in people distinguishing which pipes are carrying what. I like to suggest painting galvanized pipes used for gas yellow. Today there exists flexible stainless steel gas pipe and it always yellow (that I've ver seen) so painting piping that is for gas yellow seems like a good idea. If pipe is in the ground it will tend to corrode faster (depends on the soil conditions). Many areas do not allow galvanized pipe underground for gas piping and factory coated steel pipe must be used. In some areas plastic pipe is allowed underground (with electric wire above it to allow for locating of that plastic gas pipe as well as warning tape above that pipe as well).

It is a JOB. A couple of suggestions... while you're at it replace the waste and overflow and if possible the tub/shower faucet. Second, you can get tub surrounds in two pieces that will fit through doors and Three (I like the Sterling brand surrounds), American Standard makes an *Americast* tub that has the properties of a cast iron - but without the weight. I personally prefer Kohler cast iron over Americast as I think it's more durable. BTW you can break out the old cast tub with a sledge hammer and cut up a metal tub with a Sawzall all.

A couple of ways to go. That *little rect. box* is a cleanout plug. It's brass. If you can unscrew it great - if not cut - off the square with a Sawzall- all and you will find that it's hollow. Then cut from the center out to the threads in pie sections. Peel the plug out of the female threads. If you're lucky it will be 3". Screw in a 3" male adapter and kick on out... However it may be 3 1/2" which is no longer made. Use a 5" by 3" Fernco bell with the 5" over the hub of the cleanout. Bush down with a 3"; by 2"bush in the 3" end of the Fernco and your home again. The other way is to take a section out of the cast pipe, use Fernco's around a PVC or ABS Sanitary Tee (whatever your state uses).That *6" iron pipe* is most likely 4" cast. You can cut it with a Sawzall-all or snap it with a *rachet cutter* that is made to cut cast iron. I bought one for $340 - so you might want to rent or beg/borrow one. BE SURE that if you take a section out of the cast, that the upper section of the pipe is supported so whole thing does not come crashing down.

You cut the cast iron with a reciprocal saw like a Milwaukee Sawzall all. Use heavy metal blades like Lenox 614R type. I start with the six inchers. It will take several to get through the side of the pipe . Once you have made a cut into the pipe - it will go faster. You'll need the long metal blades to finish the job. At first-it will seem like it will never cut it-but it will. Use Mission or Fernco No Flex couplings- one on each side-to connect the plastic and cast iron. Do not forget the vents!

In most situations I use a Ridgid rachet cast iron cutter on iron waste pipes, but sometimes conditions are too confined to use that tool. Then I use a mini-grinder with a diamond wheel (they're $100 each but one lasts a lifetime) to cut as much as I can reach with that tool and finish the cut with the sawzall and a grit-edge blade. BTW the grinder with the diamond wheel is terrific for cutting tile, concrete and brick. A little dusty though.

Yes! A plumber is a highly skilled worker who installs and repairs pipes and plumbing related fixtures, diagnose clogged drain problems and solves all problems related to water systems in your home. At Blue Mountain we’re dedicated to continued training and education in the latest plumbing techniques and tools to provide the highest quality work for our customers. Our plumbers not only receive technical training but we are the undisputed leaders in customer service training. This means you are guaranteed a courteous, professional and friendly plumber at your door, every time!

You may be able to insert an Allen wrench into the bottom of the disposer and "crank" it to help free up a jam. If this doesn’t work, DON’T USE IT! You could cause serious damage to the disposal motor or even your home electrical system. Blue Mountain can usually fix a jammed up garbage disposal. If we can’t, then the unit will probably need to be replaced. Our expert technicians can give you the best advice and make quick work of it to get you grinding again!

IMHO unless the HB is new enough to match the insides with the exact same brand, model et - replace the darn thing. You can try , but , I just don't seem to have permanent success when I just repair them. Now to replace them- if they come through the wall under the house then they can be unscrewed or unsoldered from the crawl space. If it is above the floor a *window* has to opened in the wall. Just unscrewing it from outside will often result in a broken pipe in the wall.

These faucets are special to CFTs they have 2 3/8"; centers. Some units have 1/2"; and some have 3/4"; water connections at the back. The 3/4"; needs special CFT supply pipes. Most older faucets are not code and it is still easy to buy non-code faucets. The code is that the faucet spout must have a gap of at least 1"; between the top of the tub rim and the bottom of the spout - that's so bath water in the tub cannot siphon back into the drinking water supply.

99% of the time when you hear a clunk in any pipe when you turn a faucet on/off - it's a loose washer in the faucet. When you take it apart be sure you get the old washer and a screw. If you don't - turn the water back on and flush out the missing part.

You can buy a Delta single handle faucet repair kit with a tool for maybe five to seven bucks. It has all the instructions and is very easy to do.

Moen faucets have cartridges that can be replaced. There is a clip (on top) that has to be pulled up and out before the cartridge can be replaced. Often it seems stuck as if it will not come out. Some replacement cartridges provide a plastic square to turn the cartridge in the valve body 1/4 turn. This breaks it free from the valve grease that it is stuck in. If, after replacing the unit ,the hot and cold are reversed, re-install with the cartridge turned 180 degrees.

It is illegal to connect any rain or ground water to the sewer. IF, however, you do hookup - at the very least put a trap in the in the line to keep sewer gas out of the house.