Vector graphics" are different from "raster graphics" like jpg, gif, png, bmp graphics. And vector graphics use math formulas to draw animation shapes, while raster graphics save millions of tiny colored dots to draw photos.
Yes It is very laborious work to change a Flash web page quickly. For this reason, you will almost never see a dynamic content page like a news site utilizing Flash for its rapidly-changing content. Instead, Flash is used more for decorative purposes, and for advertising and online gaming purposes.
Let's assume that you have an N80 body in an underwater case and are using underwater TTL strobes. Here you could set flash exposure compensation from the N80 body (assuming the case let you access that control). I'd tend to set the N80 to Standard TTL if I wanted to fiddle with flash levels, though, as in balanced fill-flash modes you don't know what compensation the camera is already adding (i.e., you'll only get repeatable results with Standard TTL).
If you're using an SB-24 or later and a modern Nikon body that doesn't have a built-in flash, you set fill levels on the flash. With your combo, you can set fill by pressing the Minus button on the SB-28 three to five times (-1.0 to -1.7 stops). However, there's a caveat. If you have the camera set to Program (P) exposure mode and the flash to TTL, you're in what is known as a "balanced" mode. In balanced modes, the camera tries to equalize the flash and ambient light levels. But, when everything is on automatic, the camera can only set shutter speeds of 1/60 to 1/250, which might not let the camera set the proper ambient exposure. In dim light, for example, the camera would underexpose the background (though the subject would be lit by the flash). Thus, if you dial in fill flash in this situation, both the ambient light and the flash would be underexposed, ruining your shot. So, the caveat is this: don't set fill flash levels on your SB-28 unless you know that the ambient exposure is going to be correct. For dim light, that may mean you need to set Slow or Rear flash sync; in bright light, that may mean you need to set High Speed (FP) flash sync.
I do (this is true of the SB-24, SB-25, SB-26, SB-28/28DX, SB-80DX). That's because it helps keep a little light from being lost, but more importantly, it provides just a bit of catchlight in the subject's eyes (the bounce directly off the card).
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